09/08/09: Bon-Vivant’s of Yesteryear
I’m devoting this week to one of the driving forces behind the current cocktail resurgence; pre-prohibition bartender’s and their guides. Taking an interest in the invention of cocktails has lead many bartender’s to discover the guidebooks that were published before prohibition, when the cocktail was a quintessential part of America. They have discovered not only a wealth of dormant recipes, but a cast of old-timey characters that seems more fantastic than real.
My first subject of the week is the lynch-pin in the equation for many: the Professor, Jerry Thomas. All though not a lot is really known about his life, he was probably not a real professor, he wrote what is considered the first definitive collection of the cocktail recipes available in his time. “The Bartenders Guide: How to Mix Drinks, or The Bon-Vivant’s Companion” was published in 1862 and became the standard bearer for all the cocktail guides that would follow it in the yeas before prohibition. In addition to this more academic title we learn that Jerry Thomas was quite a larger-than-life-character. He tended bar, to great fame, in New York and San Francisco amongst other places, wore diamond jewelry and had very ornate business cards. If you are interested in learning more about him, I highly recommend “Imbibe” by David Wondrich.
Jerry Thomas invented many of his own drinks, but I selected this one because it sort of sums up his largess.
The Blue Blazer:
-2 oz. Single Malt Scotch (the higher the proof the better)
-1 1/2 oz. Boiling water
-1 Teaspoon Fine Sugar
Use two large silver-plated mugs with handles. Combine the Whisky and Water in one mug and light them on fire. While blazing mix the liquid by pouring from one mug to the other; about four or five times. If done properly this will have the appearance of a stream of liquid fire. Blow out the fire and pour the drink into a warm highball glass. Garnish with a large lemon twist.
And here is some additional advice from the professor:
A beholder gazing for the first time upon an experienced artist, compounding this beverage, would naturally come to the conclusion that it was a nectar for Pluto rather than Bacchus. The novice in mixing this beverage should be careful not to scald himself. To become proficient in throwing the liquid from one mug to the other, it will be necessary to practice for some time with cold water.